Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Taku Lodge


I guess it has been 2 weeks since I last wrote. Things are going well. We have been entertaining kids, teaching them cool stuff, and hanging out in the great Alaskan wilderness as per our job. These two weeks were extra special for me though because Dan came up to visit. We hung out in Juneau and then the next day he flew to Skagway and we had almost all day together there. Finally we returned to Juneau the following week and he was still there. He met the ship as it docked in Juneau with a fabulous surprise. We finally got to go to Taku Lodge! A friend of ours, Betsy, works for the airline that sends out tours to the lodge daily. We also know the son of the owners of the lodge (Ryan Ward), but until yesterday, neither of us had ever been out there. It just happened to be our lucky day and we flew out there in the fog and rain. After a 20 minute flightseeing tour over 4 glaciers, the DeHaviland Otter landed and docked at the lodge. We got out and there was a guy standing next to a tree with a stick. Turns out, there was a momma black bear in the tree on the lowest branch, while her cub was lounging up higher in the tree. Just about 30 meters from the tree is the grill where they cook all the salmon for the feast we were about to have. Once all the salmon has been cooked, the guy with the stick lets the bear climb down from the tree and she gets to lick the oils that dripped down to the sandy bottom of the grill. They don’t feed the bear ever, but they allow her to have the fish oils. If they did feed the bears, they would probably have to shut the place down because the bears would expect to be fed and if they aren’t, they could hurt someone.

The lodge is very well kept up, with amazing flowers all around and a breathtaking view of the Hole in the Wall glacier. It is located on the Taku river and surrounded on all sides by the Tongass National Rainforest. After about a half an hour of exploring, we had a feast of king salmon, biscuits, etc and while we ate, Mike Ward (Ryan’s brother) gave us a little history of the place. Turns out, at one point it was well known for its sled dog breeding. A young woman lived there, bred sled dogs, and kept the place running as a fishing and hunting lodge, all on her own. She seemed like a pretty amazing woman, even traveling 1000 miles by sled to a snow festival in Fairbanks to show off her amazing breed of sled dog. She put the Taku lodge on the map and it is on the register of Historic Places. Hopefully next time we go back to Juneau we can spend more time at the lodge. It’s a pretty amazing place and I’m sure they have some good parties out there!

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

return to Alaska...

Ok so it has been AGES since I last wrote, but I am BACK in Alaska. Yes, for the third time, I made it back to the land of the endless summer nights and unpredictable weather. I am working again on the Regent Seven Seas Mariner, this time with a new gal, Abbey. I have the same job as last year, Ambassadors of the Environment Naturalist. It is a pretty sweet gig, but the cruise ship life has been a little rocky this time around.

To start, we got on the ship June 3 and were told that we weren’t supposed to be there. So we almost got sent home. Luckily that didn’t happen, they just placed us in a crew cabin. Now for those people who have been on a cruise, you know that the rooms are nice. And on a Regent cruise, the rooms are even nicer. The rule is that every passenger suite gets a balcony. That’s what we were expecting. But no, Day 1 begins in a room with no natural light at all! Not even a porthole! Needless to say I slept for over 14 hours the first night.

AS the week progressed, we got to know the crew and crew areas well, but were then informed that when the cruise was over, we would be placed in our passenger suite. BUT, that meant we had passenger status and we weren’t allowed in the crew area AT ALL. Sounds pretty silly seeing as how we were living in a crew area at that point. And the reason was that it was a liability; if we got hurt, the ship had to pay. However, they didn’t care if something happened the week we were actually living in the crew area, only after we left did they care. Something fishy is going on around here and I don’t like it!

We finally moved into our suite and it is pretty sweet! The balcony is fabulous and the scenery phenomenal. I can’t complain too much as it is a huge privilege to be able to stay in a six star cruise ship suite. It also means that as passengers, we have to eat with other passengers. Anyone who has ever been on a ship knows that the food is supposed to be one of the best parts of cruising! Free food 24 hours a day! YAY! Most people leave the ship 5 pounds heavier than when they started a week earlier. What happens to those who eat that food for 10 weeks? Is that 50 pounds? YIKES! It’s a little distressing knowing that I get to eat amazing food all the time and I don’t have a choice. The amazing food also comes with a price, we have to eat it with other people all the time. For the most part, one would say that’s not a bad price and that is very true and I totally agree, most of the time. But when you must eat dinner over a span of 2 hours EVERY night of the week, it makes it a little less charming and a little more like work, trying to make small talk and not spill something on your dress. Not only that, but the sommeliers come around and refill your wine glass 15 times during dinner. After 2 hours you can imagine I get a little tipsy! Lets just say, it’s less than ideal for someone who has to work afterwards and keep it up for 9 more weeks! I hope I don’t come home a fat cow!

Good news is, I am a certified personal trainer now so I can train myself as well as any others who want me to kick their butts. I need/want the practice and have been practicing on Abbey as much as possible. Hopefully that will help in the not becoming a fat cow department. One of my other workout buddies just left the ship as his contract was up, but another just boarded and he is in for it! There are a few others that are always up for a good hike or stroll around town so its nice to be surrounded by people who appreciate the outdoors and want to explore.

Now here is the fun part. I haven’t talked about any of the real good stuff about Alaska yet. So here goes… I finally got to go FLY FISHING! I have never been before in my life. I am not a fisherwoman. My dad and brother love it, but I almost never go with them. It seems as if I have terrible luck catching fish. I have only caught a few in my life, and the majority of them were here in Alaska over the last 2 years. This time was amazing though. A friend of Dan’s and sort of a friend of mine, named Jesse, invited me to go fly fishing with him one day two years ago. Now mind you, he met me, and not long after invited me to join him and his tour all the while we were out at the bar. Dan told me that he was just drunk and didn’t mean it, so the next morning, I didn’t show up. Later that day, Dan mentioned that they were waiting for me. Needless to say, I was not happy to hear that, as I took Dan’s advice and didn’t show.

Two years later, I run into Jesse again. The first thing he says to me is, “you stood me up last time to go fly fishing! But the offer still stands if you want to go.” So two weeks later, he had space for me again and I got to go! His tour consists of a floatplane ride out to the wilderness (aka the middle of nowhere) and we all get off, and the plane then takes off back to the airport. Next, they teach us how to cast the fly rod, add the fly to it, and we are off to catch some fish! Everyone has chest waders on so we are standing in the freezing water casting and pulling in, casting and pulling in, and on the third cast, I caught one! I definitely screamed because I was so excited and didn’t really know what to do at that point. He helped me get it off the hook, but I left my camera about 200 meters away so I kissed my fish and let it go. I spent the next hour or so chatting and casting on a high from my catch. Unfortunately it was the only one I had the whole time. It was a great experience though and now I know how to cast a fly rod. You learn something new every day! I really want to go again and Jesse invited me back, this time though when the salmon are running so I don’t catch a 3-pound Dolly Varden, but a 10-pound Pink Salmon! Maybe I’ll have to wait another 2 years for the opportunity again…

Funny story though, once the tour was over, the floatplanes came back to pick us up. Now the company that flies the fishermen around is called Ward Air. It is owned by 2 brothers, Ed and Randy and Dan used to work there. I know most of the pilots through Dan and they are a great group of people. Ward Air is one of the most well respected charter floatplane companies in Juneau. One of the pilots, a good friend of mine, Avery, came to pick us up. I was excited to see my friend and also know that he is a great pilot. We took off and started flying back to the airport. Since I lived in Juneau I knew, for the most part, where we were. After about 3 minutes in the air, Avery began to tug at something at his feet. He kept leaning down and pulling as if something was stuck. Finally he pulled so hard that whatever it was broke! Next thing I know, he whispers something to Jesse and he begins descending away from the airport. I thought, uh oh! What could possibly be wrong. I trust Avery completely so I knew that he would take care of us, but he landed on the water in the middle of nowhere, got out of the plane with the engine still running, stood on the float and said to the other passengers, “I have to fix something”. We were all thinking the same thing, what could possibly be wrong? Jesse turned to me and said he thought it was the water rudders on the floats. A minute later, Avery hopped back in the plane and said, “All better!” We took off again and headed back to the airport. We landed at the pond and came to a stop at the floatplane dock. After we all got off the plane he explains to us that his water rudders were down and when he tried to get them up, he broke the line. Now according to Dan and Avery, if someone sees you with your water rudders down while you are flying, you own them a drink. Avery did not want anyone to see him with his water rudders down so he made an emergency landing just to make sure that wouldn’t happen. HA oh the crazy bush pilots!

Other than that, I have been in Alaska for 4 weeks now, and so far I have seen a black bear, a brown bear, sea otters, orcas, humpback whales, gray whales, seals, sea lions, humpbacks bubble net feeding, mountain goats, sitka black-tailed deer, banana slugs, the rainforest, amazing flowers, glaciers calving, salmon jumping, Dall’s porpoise, sea stars, sea anemones, crabs, totem poles, it never ends! Alaska is an amazing place and anyone who has never been really needs to add it to their bucket list because it really is the last frontier, with pristine wilderness and awe-inspiring glaciers.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

The end of the cruise

I know that is has been months since I left the ship, but I miss it and I never finished my updates from the rest of the summer. Currently the Seven Seas Mariner is in Thailand, and it would be nice to be there with my friends. However, ship life is definitely something that you have to get used to. Since I have been off the ship, people have asked why I did not try and stay on to work in another position. I have to tell you, it was definitely something I have thought of. BUT, if you had seen my accommodations over the summer and compare them to what I would have with a different job, you would understand too. I lived with my coworker in a guest suite with our own balcony and walk in closet. If I got a new job, I would be below decks with the rest of the crew in an extremely small bunk bed and only the possibility of a porthole.

Would those living conditions be worth it if I got to travel the world (or at least the pacific rim)? Maybe, but I am also the type of person that enjoys getting to know the places that I travel to. It would be torture for me to be in a new place and only be able to stay for a couple of hours and then have to move on. The only benefit to the cruise style of travel is to be able to see a bunch of places to then know where you would like to go back in the future. So many people never get that opportunity to go back though. My remedy for this dilemma is just ask my friends, who have traveled around the world on any of the 4 seven seas ships, about where they would visit again. My only other idea is to apply for a spot on the Amazing Race.

Anyways, the rest of the summer ended well. Laura and I had so many amazing kids in our program. Some of them are my friends on facebook, and one family even mailed me a book. It was such a joy to be able to meet so many great people. I truly enjoyed my experience and I would definitely do it again. Maybe next year? I have been asked, but we shall see what I am doing up until that point. As of right now, I am totally free to do it again, but after this summer, I decided to be a personal trainer. i spent a bunch of hours in the gym with a variety of people on the ship. The drummer, trombonist, assistant cruise director, cruise director, ballroom dancer, trumpet player, sax player, guitar player, and Laura were all in my workout crew. I had so much fun training them that they got me excited about maybe doing it for a living. I am currently studying for the exam and will try and be a trainer part time or full time depending on if I go to graduate school. Lets just say, I'm all over the place when it comes to finding my calling in life, but I am enjoying every minute of it!

Thursday, July 17, 2008

As for ship life this week, we had the best time EVER. There were some really great, interesting people on board. One in particular was a guy who was very distinguishable amongst guests. He was very knowledgeable in photography so he helped me out with my camera. He was also a talented singer/songwriter so he and Laura stayed up late and played piano most nights. We also went on hikes with a few of the guests to Smugglers cove in Skagway and around the rainforest in Ketchikan. There was also a guest who successfully got kicked out of the crew bar. Also, this week was my birthday and 4th of July so we celebrated both. On 4th of July, the band played live in the crew bar for us, which was amazing. The party was actually put on by the Canadians because Canada Day is July 1st and they thought that it would be funny to celebrate on the day the Americans wanted to celebrate their own independence. The good thing about that is, the HR lady is Canadian so she threw an amazing party. As for my birthday, Laura was awesome, she got me breakfast in bed, had a mini surprise party for me and got the pastry chef to make this fabulous chocolate mousse cake for me. If you ever read this Laura, THANK YOU! At the end of the cruise, we had a little get together in our room to say goodbye to the band. We were a little loud, but we did not hear about any noise complaints so that’s good.

The thing that makes it funny though, is that the Cruise Director called us into his office on day 2 of the following cruise. We asked him what it was about and he said it wasn’t good. I went out on excursion and Laura met with the cruise director. Meanwhile we thought that we were going to get kicked off the ship because we broke a few rules the past cruise. Rule #1: no passengers in your cabin and no going to a passenger cabin – BROKEN Rule # 2: No crew in passenger cabins at all – BROKEN Rule # 3: Definitely No Parties – BROKEN. So lets just say, we were expecting the worst. As I got back from excursion, I got a text message from Laura saying…Big Trouble…So I start freaking out. For all of you who know me, I am the most straight-edge, follow the rules type of girl. I can’t believe it; I think that I am going home. So I check my voicemail. Laura says, “ Molly, we are in big trouble, I think we are going to get kicked off the ship – JUST KIDDING!”. Turns out, the Director of Entertainment on all the regent ships is on this cruise. We accidentally told him the wrong place to go for our activity only because EVERY other week we have had the activity in that specific place except for this week of course. I also accidentally gave him the wrong schedule because he asked me at an off time if he could have one. I handed him the one from the previous week without looking. Now, I consider these relatively harmless things that just by bad luck happened to the wrong person. The only thing is, shouldn’t we have been informed that the most important person in our realm of the ship was going to be on board and we should try and impress him? We were never informed of this so we made a few mistakes. If that’s the worst thing that we did, I think we are doing a pretty good job.

Enough of that, so this week I got to go on the Zipline tour in Ketchikan! So fun! I was way more excited than all the cruise ship passengers were. I was dancing to myself on one of the platforms because of all my excitement and some of the other guests caught me in the act. I would normally be embarrassed, but I think my enthusiasm rubbed off on them and they had a better time because of it. Go me!

I also went on a float trip in Skagway and the guide on that was HYSTERICAL. He is from Atlanta, GA and now lives in Haines, AK. Lets just say Haines is not the most interesting city (or should I say town) in the world. However, CP (the guide) made that town sound like the greatest town that was ever built. At the end of the trip he gave us his card. Everyone must check out CP’s website at www.cpglacialfacial.com ha.

The rest of this week was awesome. The kids we had in the program were really cool and interesting and I think we really influenced them a lot. Our Sea Otter excursions was extremely successful as well. We saw...
1. humpback whales
2. gray whales
3. sitka black-tailed deer
4. 2 brown bears
5. harbor seals
6. sea otters
7. puffins
8. bald eagles

Lots of sights. Also, because we are with Cousteau, the captain took us out in one of Jean-Michel's zodiacs. We went zooming around and i really thought that I was going to fall out at least 3 times. He raced that little thing around into fjords and around islands. We saw the strangest bird, the rhinoceros auklet. I will add pictures soon of that little thing. The pilot also went with us (the guy who steers the ship into harbor, who knows the areas really well) so we were with 2 of the most important people on the ship. I felt very fortunate and really cool.

a few photos

So I got a few pictures up on my webshots if you want to check them out...

Image hosted by Webshots.com
by mollymojo9

and the cruise goes on...

The job continues here on the seven seas Mariner and I feel as if little has changed. Well, a lot has changed actually. First of all, I am used to telling stories of all the cool animal sights I have been seeing over the past couple of weeks. Now, all my stories have to do with other animals...the kids. Lets just say the kids on board have gotten more and more ridiculous as the weeks go on and now I empathize with my mother when she gets home from school completely exhausted, with story after story of a poorly behaved child. Probably one of the worst ever that we have had was a kid whose parents both looked like they were in their 60's. I'm not really sure how that all worked out, but lets just say a 4'8", 10 year old kid made the other kids cry just about every day. I honestly have never seen a kid in time-out this much in my entire life, let alone 7 days. What are these parents feeding him? Also, he escaped from the other kids program before his parents came to pick him up and they almost had to do a shipwide search to find him. yikes.

As for other news, I am still working on pictures for this blog, I have to make them all very small files to be able to upload, so when I get the time I will do it I promise. Also, most of my good friends on the ship are in the band. Somehow, with a change in ownership of Regent, the band is getting kicked off the ship (not for something they did wrong, just a change ). So come July 9 in Vancouver, many of my good friends will be gone ;( The good thing is, there will be a new band and maybe new cool people to hang out with so I wish for the best.

More to come...

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

the beginning of my job...for real this time

So the first two weeks were laid back and super easy. I knew that would change, but man I didn't know it would change that much! We began week three a little under-prepared for what was to come but luckily I am still alive to tell you about it (no, thats an extreme exaggeration). We had some really cute kids on board. One in particular, Seth, was not even of age to come to our program. He seemed mature so we let him take part. He was officially the best kid ever! If I can finally get my webshots uploaded then I will add a pic of him. Adorable. Others were not quite so adorable but I guess thats to be expected with kids. Lets just say, starting from day 1, the kids were less than enthused to be learning about stuff so they just went over to Club Mariner.

Club Mariner is the main kids program on board. It is essentially the complete opposite of our program. We try and get kids out in nature, to look for wildlife, and to learn about Alaska and what's out the window. I mean we probably cruise by 20 glaciers in one week and most people have no idea. Club Mariner, however, just set up a Nintendo Wii in the night club where they do their activities. The night club doesn't even have a window. I hope that is clarification enough of what their goals are. So mainly we spent a week in opposition with CM because all the kids would rather be there. I guess if thats what they would rather do, go for it. I would take a program with only one kid in it every week if that one kid cared and wanted to be there. And Seth did, he really wanted to be there. We had another kid too, Luke, who was just hilarious. His mom told me that for a while he couldn't sleep at night because he was afraid of "global warming"! She finally had to convince him that all the documentaries and films about global warming were all exaggerations and that it was just to scare us. He does sleep through the night now hahaha but it does still scare him. I don't know about you, but I think that is the funniest thing that I have ever heard. And guess where he is from...good ol' New York City!

So those were the most interesting kids on the cruise this past week. We did have a really cool sea otter tour this week though. We saw a humpback whale about 20 feet from our boat which was awesome! We also saw a raft of sea otters (about 100 of them) all hanging out together. The most amazing part about the tour though is that we went to this island called St. Lazaria. It is a bird sanctuary for guess what...PUFFINS! They are the cutest little birds ever. They can't fly very well, they are more adapted to "fly" underwater, so when they do fly, they crash land in the water. Its hysterical to see them land. They are actually part of a family of birds (the alcids) which all have this problem. They are kinda fat with little wings, so when they are in the way of the cruise ship, most of the time rather than flying away, they just swim cause it takes too much energy to get their bodies out of the water. We actually went to the SeaLife Center in Seward today and they had a bunch of these birds in an enclosure so we got the up close and personal view of them, but seeing them wild is so much more rewarding.

Oh I almost forgot to tell you about Tracy Arm. I went on this 6 hour tour on a small boat into Tracy Arm, which is a fjord near Juneau. The boat takes you up to a glacier and there is potential for a lot of wildlife viewing. Its an amazing place. The captain of the boat actually drove the boat up to the cliff wall and people were leaning off the side of the boat and touching the cliff face. That just shows that the mountain literally just goes straight down into the water. And for those of you who didn't know, a fjord is a glacially carved valley that got filled in by water so the mountains actually start sometimes 2000 feet down below the water level. It's pretty amazing to see. Along the way we spotted some seals hauled out on icebergs and I even got a picture of one with its pup. It's a great time to be in Alaska because many of the animals have babies and you know how much I love BABIES! On the way out of Tracy Arm and back to Juneau we saw a few whales feeding which was cool, but I was really hoping for some orca sightings. I still haven't seen one this trip.

As for on the ship, life has been pretty good. I am still meeting someone new every day. Everyone is still really nice and accommodating. It's sad though because all of the employees have different contracts so I will have just started to get to know somebody and then they leave. Life on ships is interesting. People typically have a 4-8 month contract, then they take off for 4-8 weeks and then hop back on another ship. Some people have been doing this for 10 years! I couldn't imagine. It is funny though cause all the employees know each other from different ships and different contracts.

And the nightlife on the ship is pretty good too. Every night it seems we go to the show and then to one of the lounges where the orchestra will play for about 45 minutes. Many of the dancers and others can go and have a drink at the lounge so we all meet up there and chat. Problem is, they don't want the crew to look like they are having a better time than the passengers so we can't "clump" meaning we can't sit more than 3 to a table. However, we do get kicked out of the lounge by midnight and then below in deck 4 there is a crew bar. Last week the Phillipinos had their Independence day party themed "dungeons and dragons" so the crew bar was hopping. Most of the time its pretty lame. Especially now that our best DJ just finished his contract and is no longer on this ship. So thats mainly the scene. Sometimes we hang out on the observation deck which is on the top level in the front of the ship. Thats where we get the most wildlife sightings and its a cool atmosphere. Unfortunately I have been rather busy and have not had much time to spend up there this past week. Maybe this week...

So thats about all for now, stay tuned for pics...theres a lot of them!